Wep’s 1956 Romanian adventure: 29 Oct-1 Nov; Chartres revisited and the Louvre

Mon 29-Oct-56: Roamed around, quick look at Louvre & saw Picasso film again – dinner alone at St Germain.
Tue 30-Oct-56:   Rose 5am & got 6:30 train to Chartres, cold but enjoyable. Dinner with Bob Close & others.
Wed 31-Oct-56: Went to Louvre. Quiet day.
Thu 1-Nov-56:   All Souls Day here. Everything shut, did nothing much, went to Place de Vosges.

1956 MM-DD WEP Romania_0075

Paris
Mon 29 ‘56

Dearest girl,

Another very grey day, with the significant difference that it looks grey to me, too. I’ve just come back from a scouting trip to the Louvre. And these great galleries can depress one very easily. One is forced to contemplate one’s own inadequacies & other’s noble communications with succeeding generations. It was very dark in the gallery but I managed to locate some beautiful things. Leonardo’s “Virgin with Jesus & St Anne”, so much better than the “Mona Lisa”. Giorgione’s “Le Concert Champetre” Titian “Virgin au Lapin” del Sarto “La Charité” & a superb portrait by Raphael of “Jeanne D’Aragon”. Very beautiful. All this beauty of city & past efforts are saddening. Perhaps I’m tired – and reaction has set in after yesterday’s strong impact. I felt like giving it away, but the more one sees of this fabulous city, the more one realises how little one can accomplish in the time allowed. God, how I’d like a month here with you. We could give back to each other the needed help. I hope you understood why I had to become so direct at the end of my last letter. It was very necessary to combat the upward surge. I know, anyway, that you would have been all you could to me. I think I’ll go out and find myself something to eat. I’ve been roaming around a fair bit & am getting rather hungry. Strange as it may seem I wish I could hear you chatter madly, and not too pontifically about all the things we could have seen together. I’d like to buy you some wine, & to get you slightly high, and be (that is me) all sort of mildly amused & knowledgably superior. Miss you darling. Au revoir.

Have just come in – it’s about 11pm. Went & saw the Picasso picture again but couldn’t manage to keep awake. Went and had a feed alone. Cost about £1 for a very indifferent meal.

Very cold out – and the streets are wet & full of reflections from the lights of the city. The Seine doesn’t look too inviting in this sort of weather. Roley must have been in & out again. No sign of him at the moment. Don’t know whether to go to Chartres on the 6.20am train tomorrow – or not. Just can’t make up my mind at the moment. Don’t fancy it in the rain. Perhaps it would be better for me to see some galleries although the bigger ones are closed on Tuesdays. Good night sweetheart.

Good Heaven! It’s Thursday morning already! [31 Oct 1956]. On Tuesday morning I got up at 5am. Cold & very dark. Took myself off on a train at 6.30am to revisit Chartres Cathedral – arrived Chartres about 8am, not long after daylight. It was bitterly cold & a perhaps a perfect day to get the full impression of the cathedral. Austere & keen. I had slightly expected a letdown in emotional feeling on a second view – but all my first raptures were held. It is the most moving building I have seen. A wonderful work of the human spirit. Seems to completely embody the medieval gothic soul.

Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956

The great and simple southern spire – soaring without any commonplace cake like decorations into the cold grey sky – Everything very silent, save for the squawk of the black birds flying in & around the open chambers the high peaked top.

Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956

Around the main entrance – the typical Gothic carvings – but these so much better than most. Pure Gothic – as moving as can be – quite up to the Indian gift for sculptured embroidery conceived as a grand and united whole. A beautiful church. Went over to the Louvre but find the pictures hard to see – Paris is very dull & grey – cold too now. So dark, little light comes into the gallery. Most disappointing as there were many fine pictures to be seen. I getting too tired to really take them in. It’s a big gallery with plenty of walking to be done, and my legs have just about had it. Am looking forward to getting home for a rest for a few days.

All the world tension & disaster doesn’t add to the gaiety over here. I hope to God I can get home on time. What with the way things are shaping up it’s becoming a bit disturbing – Not knowing just how big the Anglo French war with Egypt will get. I guess you are getting worried about it. However, I think I will get through all right. I’m going to London tomorrow or the day after & will find out better how the flights home are standing. Shouldn’t be any trouble, as apparently plenty of French athletes are getting ready to take off for the Melbourne Olympics.

Here it is Thursday & midday already. Days are getting short here – I was up at 8am & big[?] a fair bit of washing. Managed to boil my handkerchiefs for the first time. Roley’s got a fire going & the flat is all tightly closed up – makes me sleepy – so I suppose I’d better go out & liven up in the grey chill. Very hazy & all – the buildings appearing like photographs with their almost complete lack of colour. Very paintable though.

I must get this letter off – perhaps my last from here. Longing to see you and Graham again. Nothing like having your own family around even if I never realise it when I have got it! Sorry that this is not a more enthusiastic letter, darling. When I am all keyed up to get the details good & hot – some interference takes place – much as you have complained about at home. Give my regards to the DolemansWatsons & Price Jones. I send you very loving thoughts – your Bill. XXX

16 Cloître Notre Dame, 28000 Chartres, France

75001 Paris, France

Taken from Rue de la Grenouillère, Chartres; 30 Oct 1956
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The same view, 19 Dec 2015
Taken near 1 – 3 Rue du Frou looking towards Chartres Cathedral, Chartres; 30 Oct 1956
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The same view, 19 Dec 2015
2-10 Rue de la Planche aux Carpes, photographed from Rue du Chêne Doré, Chartres; 30 Oct 1956
1957 oil on board 37.0 x 51.0 cm signed on the lower right: pidgeon 57 label attached: Invoice 26244 / $215.2 23.4.90 / $130.00 No.9 Charles Hewitt Frames Invoices #26243/4/5, 23/4/90 17 paintings not fully identified. Framing details per invoices Avg cost $446.86 ($7,596.70) Item 9 - [Bridge walk, Chartres, France, 1956] 26" x 20.5", S8047 moulding and small linen bevel, $215.20, Restoration $130.00
[Bridge walk, Chartres, France, 1956]
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The same view, 19 Dec 2015
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Wep’s son Peter and family outside the house at 2-10 Rue de la Planche aux Carpes, Chartres; 19 Dec 2015
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Wep’s son, Peter Pidgeon and home owner Jean outside 2-10 Rue de la Planche aux Carpes, Chartres; 19 Dec 2015
1 Rue de Bethléem, Chartres; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Chartres Cathedral; 30 Oct 1956
Institut de France, Le Parlement des Savants photographed from the right bank looking across the Seine; 31 October 1956
[Institut de France, Le Parlement des Savants, Paris 1956]
[Institut de France, Le Parlement des Savants, Paris 1956]
Pont Neuf, Paris; 31 October 1956
The Louvre museum in the distance from the Tuileries Garden, Place de la Concorde, adjacent to the Rue de Rivoli, Paris; 31 October 1956
Place de la Concorde, Paris; 31 October 1956
Bassin Octagonal, Jardin des Tuileries, Paris; 31 October 1956
Margaret Murray standing in front of the Bassin Octagonal (camera looking north) in the Jardin des Tuileries, Paris; 31 October 1956
Jardin des Tuileries, Paris; 31 October 1956
Place de Vosges; 1 November 1956

Wep’s 1956 Romanian adventure: 26 Sep; Rome – I am in anything but a state of Splendor!

on 24-Sep-56: Took off 8:30am through Bangkok, Calcutta and Karachi, flew all day & night, arrived Cairo 3:55am.
Tue 25-Sep-56: Landed Rome 10am. Found suitcase had been left at Karachi. After lot of bother settled in Splendor Hotel. Cashed £10
Wed 26-Sep-56: Walked miles saw Vatican & Colosseum

1956 MM-DD WEP Romania_0003

[Roma, Italy, Splendor Hotel via Luigi Luzzatti N. 20.A]

Wed 27th 9.45pm [26 Sep 1956]

To My dear little wife & Graham,

I am in anything but a state of Splendor! I’m done in, I’m finished, I’m in bed, and I miss you both very much. I’ve walked Rome down to its original foundations and have had no one to whom to speak of it. Haven’t spoken to an Englisher since I arrived on Tues morning at 10.30am with the exception of tonight at dinner when one of the passengers of the plane turned up at the Hotel.

Things have got off to a bad start for the fool Qantas crowd left my baggage behind at Karachi. I hope to get it off the first available plane, which arrives tomorrow morning at 9am or so. I had to change my booking for Venice as that plane leaves at 8.45am. However a plane leaves at 2.55pm and have booked that. God knows what I’ll do if the bloody bag doesn’t arrive, or is half missing. It has been awkward without the gear. I have to walk everywhere because I can’t understand the gabling lingo, am ignorant of the destinations of trams & buses and don’t trust myself on finding a way out of the predicament. I must have cyclometered 20 miles, & the old dogs are killing me.

Had a very smooth trip on the plane but saw little of the land before we got to Singapore, as we were flying at 16,500 ft (i.e. about 3 miles up). After Bangkok we flew over thick cloud all the way to Rome. Ian Hamilton met me at the airport and drove me to Raffles where I had a shower & we had a look at the city on Sunday afternoon. It is a fantastic place with myriads of people milling around like ants of all conceivable shape & color, and in all stages of dress & undress. I haven’t the energy to elaborate much on the curiosities of Singapore but must mention that Ian, his wife, two other wives (not his) and myself went to a fantastic joint called Happy World, which is a collection of everything like the side shows & display stalls of the RAS and then some. But, my dear, the people! Polygot!

Sinseng Restaurant, Singapore; 23 September 1956

We had a Chinese meal there sitting in the open amongst the passers by. The chop shop had all its uncooked wares on display & as we pointed out what we wanted they would chop it up & cook it. Very good & very light. How Bill P Jones’ eyes would have stuck out, etc, etc.

Outside the Sinseng Restaurant, Singapore; 23 September 1956
Outside the Sinseng Restaurant, Singapore; 23 September 1956

I’m half asleep writing this in bed.

I wouldn’t care much to lose myself in Singapore. Even for the wonderful  chinese dolls.

Bill has highlighted in red on the map all the areas he walked. His descriptions are captured in his letters home "Carrani Burea de Voyages, Rome - Via Delle Terme, 95 (vis-à-vis le Grand Hotel) Autor. Ente Provinciale per il Turismo n. 359/F1 del 24 gennaio 1956 Autor. Della Questura di Roma dell'8 febbraio 1956 De Rossi, Tivoli"01-Feb-56
Wep highlighted in red on the map all the areas he walked around Rome.

You’d love Rome and I think I could now show you round a bit if you were with me. Sheer exhaustion is taking the edge off it for me. It is full of contrast & movement. Great slabs of it are like very much better done Kings X & Macleay St. Huge open places alternate with old past centuries dwellings flanking narrow streets. The city proper is built in the old area. Streets not much wider than Rowe St, down which busses, cars & motor scooters by the million whiz down with breakneck speed in a truly terrifying way. I really am frightened of the traffic here, it’s unbelievably fast & seemingly chaotic but strangely I haven’t seen an accident or a bent car. Every mobile thing is used, bicycles with box carriers in front, horse drawn phaetons, motor bike trucks, etc, all with practically open exhausts, and horns blowing & blasting ad nauseum. To make matters worse it runs in the opposite way to ours, which is what makes it dangerous for me because I am fixed on looking for oncoming cars where they aint. Only my increasing old womanishness has kept me in tack.

St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 26 September 1956
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St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 7 December 2013
St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 26 September 1956
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St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 7 December 2013

A few tired words couldn’t give you any idea of what the Vatican is like. Stupendous – and not in the Hollywood use of the term although most of the interior is Hollywood. In the conception & execution this general headquarters of the R.C.’s is gigantic.

Sorry I can’t write any more dear.

Ian Hamilton asked to be remembered.

Don’t be too misstressful with the young bloke. Tell him postcard sending will be in abeyance for a while as Airmail fee is pretty high. ¾ for one letter.

Lots & lots of love for you both.

Bill

1956 MM-DD WEP Romania_0007 copy

Last page included an illustration “Me exercising in Roma”

Rome, 26 September 1956
Rome, 26 September 1956

Lots of love sweetie. Am feeling stronger. Have dashed this off before breakfast or colazione to you. The whole town reeks of Expresso coffee & no one seems to wear a hat – male or female.

Tell P Jones I’ve heard everything. Tell him to tell Bert Gardiner I came over from Singapore with a young Chinese student who attends the University of Belfast – and talks like Bert Gardiner.

P.S. Just got word to say my bag has turned up. Thank Heavens. I hope nothing is missing/it was not locked.

Via della Conciliazione, Rome; 26 September 1956
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Via della Conciliazione, Rome; 7 December 2013
Via della Conciliazione, Rome looking towards St Peter’s Square; 26 September 1956
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Via della Conciliazione, Rome, looking towards St Peter’s Square; 7 December 2013
St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 26 September 1956
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St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 7 December 2013
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
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The Colosseum, Rome; 9 December 2013
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
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The Colosseum, Rome; 9 December 2013
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
Rome; 26 September 1956
Via di Tor di Nona, Rome; 26 September 1956
Looking towards Trajan’s Column from via Quattro Novembre, Rome; 26 September 1956
Monument to Victor Emanuel, Rome
Monument to Victor Emanuel, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Venice palace, Rome
Venice palace, Rome

Piazza del Colosseo, 1, 00184 Rome, Italy

00193 Rome, Italy

00120, Vatican City

Via Luigi Luzzatti 20a, 00185 Rome, Italy

00186 Rome, Italy

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