Wep’s 1956 Romanian adventure: 26 Sep; Rome – I am in anything but a state of Splendor!

on 24-Sep-56: Took off 8:30am through Bangkok, Calcutta and Karachi, flew all day & night, arrived Cairo 3:55am.
Tue 25-Sep-56: Landed Rome 10am. Found suitcase had been left at Karachi. After lot of bother settled in Splendor Hotel. Cashed £10
Wed 26-Sep-56: Walked miles saw Vatican & Colosseum

1956 MM-DD WEP Romania_0003

[Roma, Italy, Splendor Hotel via Luigi Luzzatti N. 20.A]

Wed 27th 9.45pm [26 Sep 1956]

To My dear little wife & Graham,

I am in anything but a state of Splendor! I’m done in, I’m finished, I’m in bed, and I miss you both very much. I’ve walked Rome down to its original foundations and have had no one to whom to speak of it. Haven’t spoken to an Englisher since I arrived on Tues morning at 10.30am with the exception of tonight at dinner when one of the passengers of the plane turned up at the Hotel.

Things have got off to a bad start for the fool Qantas crowd left my baggage behind at Karachi. I hope to get it off the first available plane, which arrives tomorrow morning at 9am or so. I had to change my booking for Venice as that plane leaves at 8.45am. However a plane leaves at 2.55pm and have booked that. God knows what I’ll do if the bloody bag doesn’t arrive, or is half missing. It has been awkward without the gear. I have to walk everywhere because I can’t understand the gabling lingo, am ignorant of the destinations of trams & buses and don’t trust myself on finding a way out of the predicament. I must have cyclometered 20 miles, & the old dogs are killing me.

Had a very smooth trip on the plane but saw little of the land before we got to Singapore, as we were flying at 16,500 ft (i.e. about 3 miles up). After Bangkok we flew over thick cloud all the way to Rome. Ian Hamilton met me at the airport and drove me to Raffles where I had a shower & we had a look at the city on Sunday afternoon. It is a fantastic place with myriads of people milling around like ants of all conceivable shape & color, and in all stages of dress & undress. I haven’t the energy to elaborate much on the curiosities of Singapore but must mention that Ian, his wife, two other wives (not his) and myself went to a fantastic joint called Happy World, which is a collection of everything like the side shows & display stalls of the RAS and then some. But, my dear, the people! Polygot!

Sinseng Restaurant, Singapore; 23 September 1956

We had a Chinese meal there sitting in the open amongst the passers by. The chop shop had all its uncooked wares on display & as we pointed out what we wanted they would chop it up & cook it. Very good & very light. How Bill P Jones’ eyes would have stuck out, etc, etc.

Outside the Sinseng Restaurant, Singapore; 23 September 1956
Outside the Sinseng Restaurant, Singapore; 23 September 1956

I’m half asleep writing this in bed.

I wouldn’t care much to lose myself in Singapore. Even for the wonderful  chinese dolls.

Bill has highlighted in red on the map all the areas he walked. His descriptions are captured in his letters home "Carrani Burea de Voyages, Rome - Via Delle Terme, 95 (vis-à-vis le Grand Hotel) Autor. Ente Provinciale per il Turismo n. 359/F1 del 24 gennaio 1956 Autor. Della Questura di Roma dell'8 febbraio 1956 De Rossi, Tivoli"01-Feb-56
Wep highlighted in red on the map all the areas he walked around Rome.

You’d love Rome and I think I could now show you round a bit if you were with me. Sheer exhaustion is taking the edge off it for me. It is full of contrast & movement. Great slabs of it are like very much better done Kings X & Macleay St. Huge open places alternate with old past centuries dwellings flanking narrow streets. The city proper is built in the old area. Streets not much wider than Rowe St, down which busses, cars & motor scooters by the million whiz down with breakneck speed in a truly terrifying way. I really am frightened of the traffic here, it’s unbelievably fast & seemingly chaotic but strangely I haven’t seen an accident or a bent car. Every mobile thing is used, bicycles with box carriers in front, horse drawn phaetons, motor bike trucks, etc, all with practically open exhausts, and horns blowing & blasting ad nauseum. To make matters worse it runs in the opposite way to ours, which is what makes it dangerous for me because I am fixed on looking for oncoming cars where they aint. Only my increasing old womanishness has kept me in tack.

St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 26 September 1956
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St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 7 December 2013
St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 26 September 1956
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St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 7 December 2013

A few tired words couldn’t give you any idea of what the Vatican is like. Stupendous – and not in the Hollywood use of the term although most of the interior is Hollywood. In the conception & execution this general headquarters of the R.C.’s is gigantic.

Sorry I can’t write any more dear.

Ian Hamilton asked to be remembered.

Don’t be too misstressful with the young bloke. Tell him postcard sending will be in abeyance for a while as Airmail fee is pretty high. ¾ for one letter.

Lots & lots of love for you both.

Bill

1956 MM-DD WEP Romania_0007 copy

Last page included an illustration “Me exercising in Roma”

Rome, 26 September 1956
Rome, 26 September 1956

Lots of love sweetie. Am feeling stronger. Have dashed this off before breakfast or colazione to you. The whole town reeks of Expresso coffee & no one seems to wear a hat – male or female.

Tell P Jones I’ve heard everything. Tell him to tell Bert Gardiner I came over from Singapore with a young Chinese student who attends the University of Belfast – and talks like Bert Gardiner.

P.S. Just got word to say my bag has turned up. Thank Heavens. I hope nothing is missing/it was not locked.

Via della Conciliazione, Rome; 26 September 1956
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Via della Conciliazione, Rome; 7 December 2013
Via della Conciliazione, Rome looking towards St Peter’s Square; 26 September 1956
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Via della Conciliazione, Rome, looking towards St Peter’s Square; 7 December 2013
St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 26 September 1956
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St Peter’s Square, Vatican City; 7 December 2013
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
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The Colosseum, Rome; 9 December 2013
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
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The Colosseum, Rome; 9 December 2013
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
The Colosseum, Rome; 26 September 1956
Rome; 26 September 1956
Via di Tor di Nona, Rome; 26 September 1956
Looking towards Trajan’s Column from via Quattro Novembre, Rome; 26 September 1956
Monument to Victor Emanuel, Rome
Monument to Victor Emanuel, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Trajan markets, Rome
Venice palace, Rome
Venice palace, Rome

Piazza del Colosseo, 1, 00184 Rome, Italy

00193 Rome, Italy

00120, Vatican City

Via Luigi Luzzatti 20a, 00185 Rome, Italy

00186 Rome, Italy

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