C/O Public Relations
N. G. Forces
Mon 31st [Jan 1944]
Am settled down in a permanent base at last. Although I shall probably be in the mountains north of here most of the time I can at least have any letters you have written forwarded to me this area.
Yesterday I hitch-hiked out of Finschhafen, managing a jeep ride through prodigious jungle to an airstrip. After coming out of the really dense but only moderately high jungle around the areas in which I was these enormous tree were singularly impressive. Some seemed at least 200 ft high the trunks barely discernible beneath the profusion of parasitic vines orchids lichens and stag horns. The trunks thrusting like spears towards the light above – not much foliage in the dank darkness beneath the high green canopy. It’s a damn sight more satisfactory to see the country by road than it is either by air or sea. The details, the small and the undergrowth noise of birds and insects provide an intimacy quite lacking in those other forms of transport.
Lae looked no better to me on a second visit. Everything seems dry and blasted as well it might be after the pounding it received. Flying up the Ramu valley is everything Tommy [O’Dea] said it was – a hell of a lot more into the bargain. Now that was a trip to be seen from a plane. The most beautiful placer I’ve ever seen. The brilliant green kumai grass along the flats edging the Ramu River makes its way up the treeless & knife edged foot hills to the bases of two colossal mountain ranges which enclosed the valley. The clouds wind the depressions between peaks & plume off the highest points in great dramatic forms. The unbelievable blues & greens below edge off into the sombre silhouettes of mountains like Mt Helwig which is 10,000 ft. The fading light throughs the clouds into the starkness of black & white. Small grey thatched native villages appear at irregular intervals and I leapt from window to window of the plane with the alacrity of a flea.
There were only 3 passengers in the plane (a big Douglas transport job loaded to the plimsoll with tins of dehydrated potatoes, soup, ration tins & what have you). It seemed a long time getting off the ground – the tail did not appear to lift any too well. My stomach anxiously awaited the disappearance of the strip beneath. Next thing I know is that my guts are trying to get on the other side of my backbone – we had gone into a steep climb. Next we are over the grassy foothills so low that the bloody stuff seemed to be whizzing past the windows. Cripes I’ll bet the pilot cleared the ridges by only 4 feet. Then the grass on the plains would appear suspiciously close. I would think we were losing height because of the weight of cargo – then up and back the guts would go again. If it hadn’t been for the scenery the trip would have been an anxious misery.
Found on landing that we had been brought up by a Yank known as the Mad Major. He tosses these Douglas’s round like fighters. He has been seen doing loops and slow rolls with them. Too much bloody exuberance. Strangely enough he was no chicken although a big wildly laughing guy. I am told he was grounded for recklessness whilst with a Lightning fighter squadron. Ah me!
If you see Mrs Farrow or Farrar, the dame down the road, you can tell her that I have nearly met her brother. I found the 2/2nd Pioneer Battalion but he wasn’t in the particular company I came across. I may meet him tomorrow. This beautiful country belies its looks – it’s lousy with all the worst tropical plagues, itches – and worse things.
This is by far the best camp I have stayed in. Good food – fairly cool – plenty of birds decent tents & native built huts – and amicable company. The press advance headquarters are here and 2 P.R. officers to look after us. 4 or 5 correspondents are here at the moment. So its just like living in the Journalists’ Club except that there is no tasty ale.
While I think of it, will you ring Syd King, police roundsman at the office & ask him how much my betting debt is. Then post him a check. Thankyou, my pet.
Nothing else at the moment. Have not been able to get a letter from you yet but hope to receive some from Moresby when I come out of them there hills. I have two days march in front of me after leaving the jeep track head. Boy will I be weak. May have a boong carrier to help me along.
Hope you are looking after yourself. Lots of love darling.