{"id":2925,"date":"2016-10-28T15:00:01","date_gmt":"2016-10-28T04:00:01","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wepidgeon.com\/pidgeonpost\/?p=2925"},"modified":"2016-10-30T16:09:26","modified_gmt":"2016-10-30T05:09:26","slug":"weps-1956-romanian-adventure-26-28-oct-paris-saint-remy-les-chevreuse-and-chartres","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wepidgeon.com\/pidgeonpost\/?p=2925","title":{"rendered":"Wep’s 1956 Romanian adventure: 26-28 Oct; Paris, Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse and Chartres"},"content":{"rendered":"
Fri 26-Oct-56:\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Chicken. Walked around generally from [Maurice] <\/i>Utrillo’s church<\/i><\/a>\u00a0[Notre-Dame de Clignancourt] all through city. Went back to city (?) later & bought a hot chicken for tea.<\/i><\/h6>\n
Sat 27-Oct-56:\u00a0\u00a0 Roley worked at Daily Express office & I saw Musee d’Art Moderne. Went to Joan Harrison’s place for evening meal.<\/i><\/h6>\n
Sun 28-Oct-56:\u00a0 Walked around Isle near Notre Dame Chartres. Went for drive & dinner at Remy St Chevreuse & went on to see Chartres cathedral – Had dinner at a caf\u00e9 in St Germain. Saw Picasso film.<\/i><\/h6>\n
\"[Paris<\/a>
Bois de Boulogne, Paris 1956 – Painted in 1957, this depiction of the Paris landscape is as viewed from the Bois de Boulogne with the Eiffel Tower in the centre distance and the Arc de Triomphe immediately to its left. Whilst Wep does not reference visiting the Bois de Boulogne, he may well have done so on 26 October 1956.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"1956<\/p>\n

Paris<\/h6>\n
Saturday night \u2013 27th Oct<\/h6>\n

Little Sweetie,<\/p>\n

I wanted to write to you very much & thought that I was fixed for an evening in which to do it. Roley\u2019s big day in an office is on Saturday and I did not expect to see him until later tonight. But he rang up & said that I was expected as an extra guest for a meal he was going to. We have not long returned and it is pretty late. In any case, there is so much to tell of Paris \u2013 that one hardly knows where to begin \u2013 even if one has the time. I have covered quite a lot of this city & there is still much more than I can contemplate coping with. It is huge. And with millions of people & cars running madly all over it like ants. The weather has been mostly dull, which I gather is commonplace enough \u2013 But the city looks like many pearls against a grey velvet background. A very beautiful place, which is everything that you could expect from it. The number of cars around is fabulous.<\/p>\n

<\/a>
Possibly Joan Harrison outside the Mus\u00e9e d’Art Moderne (Museum of Modern Art), Paris; 27 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The price of culture is high here. On a visit to the Museum of Modern Art [Mus\u00e9e d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris<\/a>]\u00a0\u2013 I saw a specially collected exhibition of Matisse. About half a dozen of the pictures were superb. The old gentleman seems lately to be doing nothing but cut out bits of coloured paper & stick them down. I cough out money for entrance of Galleries & fork up for expensive catalogues. 2 shows & their catalogues cost me 200 Franc each to enter (i.e. 5\/.-) plus 350 francs each for the catalogue. The other exhibition was by a sculptress named Germaine Richier<\/a>. Fantastic stuff. Some of it most impressive \u2013 lots of it screwy. I\u2019ve been walking about 6 hours a day and get really too tired to do justice to my need for you. I got your letter dated 22nd<\/sup> today and was highly delighted to realise your desire for me is as great as is mine for you. I am looking forward to our reunion in the warmth. It is very cold over here at the moment, but I am keeping warm enough \u2013 I leave for London next Friday for about a week \u2013 and before I know what is what will be on the plane home to you and Graham. I have done my best to make the most out of this trip despite the fact that I am getting heartily tired of buildings & pictures. Roley aims to have a day out in the country tomorrow \u2013 which should be a welcome change. I am too sleepy to continue writing so will go to bed with your need alongside me. It is very helpful to be getting some letters from you so quickly. Nothing has turned up from Rumania yet. I guess it is a relief to know that I am out of the Red area. The insurrections in Hungary could have been very disturbing for you had you not known I was already beyond the Iron Curtain. I am closing this part of the draft with very much love. And I mean it my dearest Dorothy wife. Kisses for you & the junior Pidgeons. While Roley goes out to play the organ for the English Embassy service in the morning, I am going over to Notre Dame for a walk with his secretary \u2013 a nice Aussie girl [Margaret Murray].<\/p>\n

Sunday [28 Oct 1956]. [One paragraph typed] Roley bought this machine in Italy for only 17\u00a3 St. Got some sort of journalistic rebate on it. A brand new Olivetti. Can\u2019t quite get used to the feel of it myself as the keyboard seems a little jammed up to me. Still it\u2019s a nice clean typeface. Very expensive in this city, so I shall hold my horses until I get to London, where I will see what is available, and what to get here on the last lap home. I\u2019ll come back for a day or two before I take off for Zurich. Listen darling, you\u2019d better send me again all your measurements in both inches and centimetres. Also glove sizes. Please do it immediately and post to me in London, Aust. Consolidated Press, 107 Fleet St, London EC4.<\/p>\n

Darlingest Dorothy \u2013 my dear girl. I have had the most wonderful day. I was breathless about it an hour or so ago but have tired off \u2013 Nevertheless, I want you to know, & for me to remember, something of it. I hope to write myself into a regained enthusiasm as I go along. I had not long finished playing around with Roley\u2019s typewriter when his secretary came & took me off for a walk to the little island behind the Notre Dame. It is called the Isle St Louis and we wandered through the pearly grey veil of atmosphere which seems to shroud Paris in an intangible net of beauty on the rising of the day. The Seine greyly yellow, sluggish through the black trunks of the trees by the river \u2013 the light tones of the retaining walls & the wonderful Japonise lines of the steps and ramps leading to the waters edge. Grey \u2013 not a black keyed up \u2013 but a viridian & crimson mixed hue of lustre off-white. Luminous \u2013 and not substantial. An image on a screen, without a seeming reality, except that one can see the movement of the lime green leaves as they fall before & behind where you stand. To put your hand out and hold one for a second in its suspended and inevitably beautiful pattern in the almost too inviolable harmony. The leaves just acid enough to save the whole from a cloying death. I think I can still see it \u2013 I know I will \u2013 so many things to remember \u2013 So many things remembered \u2013 Beautiful grey & lime. Fluid lovely lines of river, trees & bridges. Came back & went into Notre Dame, which was crowded because some special service. Impressive enough church, but somehow disappointed in it.<\/p>\n

<\/a>
Margaret Murray with Roley Pullen at one of the best restaurants in the environs of Paris, possibly the Cafe de la Mairie at Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse; 28 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Margaret Murray with Bill Pidgeon (Wep) at one of the best restaurants in the environs of Paris, possibly the Cafe de la Mairie at Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse; 28 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Met Roley at 12 after his church service playing & we three started off to the country to one of the best restaurants in the environs of Paris. I remember Roley writing a story about the Prince of Gourmets, a fellow, named Curnonsky<\/a>, & eleven others, of which Roley was one, eating a whole pig at one meal. We had a magnificent omelette \u2013 a specialty called Omelette du Cur\u00e9 de Mennessiar. Made as far as we could find out \u2013 with a filling of cream & tuna & carp & herring sperm. I think with a little mornay sauce \u2013 sprinkled with chives & served in a long ramekin with melted butter & a little lemon juice \u2013 Boy! \u2013 I mean girlie! It was smooth. We made a mistake with the second dish \u2013 not that it was not good, but that it was not their extra hot specialty as we found out later. A fine white wine, although a little sweet for me – & tres bon claret. So many of their wines are good. Nevertheless you start paying for them. \u2013 A Beaujolais, which is apparently a reasonably good wine costs about 4\/6. The vin ordinaire which one can get for 2\/3 is quite good but no better than that Murrumbidgee Red we had. Of course you can get the vintage classes & pay what you like. We have not gone to the extent of having really expensive meals. Roley is a bloody goon, & won\u2019t let me pay when we eat out \u2013 so sometimes I buy a chicken (cooked) & we heat it u & fix up in the flat. I help out a little by doing bits of plumbing \u2013 cleaning his sink out etc. & bits & pieces. He is helpless as a babe. God knows what all this living in Paris would cost. I know the lunch cost 4750 francs which is nearly a \u00a35. Cheap hotel accommodation without meals is 1700 francs a night. \u00a32 Australian. I\u2019ll try & do a painting to send back to him. He insists that Jess & I gave him much hospitality in Australia. You\u2019d like him very much.<\/p>\n

\"Bill<\/a>
Bill Pidgeon (Wep) and Margaret Murray snapped by a street photographer near the Notre Dame, Paris; 28 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Had a street photo taken near the Notre Dame & hope to get it soon. I love you. Xxx.<\/p>\n

<\/a>
Roley Pullen and Margaret Murray at Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse; 28 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Roley Pullen and Margaret Murray at Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse; 28 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Margaret Murray at Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse; 28 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Roley Pullen and Bill Pidgeon (Wep) standing in the Place de la Mairie possibly pointing to the cafe where they and Margaret Murray had dined at Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse; 28 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This little village St Remy les Chevreuse about 16 miles out of Paris, was very charming & very new to me \u2013 different, more intimate, than Paris \u2013 little angles on village lanes & doll like houses. Gay with the grape, Roley screams out (he always screams) we\u2019ll take the bloody Boche (that\u2019s me) to Chartres to see the cathedral. Bingo & with hurry to get there before the light is too full to come through the grand illuminated windows.<\/p>\n

<\/a>
Approaching Chartres Cathedral and the end of the roll of film; 28 Oct 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Lovely little town \u2013 medieval \u2013 everything in the book \u2013 All of us gay & enthusiastic \u2013 the beautiful cathedral, Roley reckoned the finest in France & I believe him. Knocks the Notre Dame Paris, into a cocked hat. Perfect Gothic stone figures guarding the entrance to the Lord. 700 years or more since the western soul soared through the immobile stone to seek a mystic union with the things that move us all. The front right & oldest tower embodying a simplicity & perfection of line, not to be recaptured in the rest of the building. \u2013 (These things took generations to complete). The setting light \u2013 the grey \u2013 It must be a French grey \u2013 perfectly holding the form without shadow. Inside, so dark, and the last light filtering through the coloured jewels in lead. Windows that shone like neons in a sea of midnight velvet. Behind us, out of the interior murk silhouetted figures & a mother with a pram silently as a photograph passing through the stations of the filtered light. On the right in equal & untouchable gloom \u2013 the epiphany of the lighted candles \u2013 and the bended devout. High up \u2013 high as the seeming sky \u2013 in the radiant windows. Jewels \u2013 seeable \u2013 memorable \u2013 and indescribable. All of which had a terrible effect on my high animal spirits. The flesh abased made you realise something \u2013 damn it all \u2013 It\u2019s hard to describe without getting too precious on paper \u2013 I could tell you darling, when I have my head in your lap, and against your breast, and you ask me to ramble on, & you\u2019ll understand, because you\u2019ll feel my heart, and I\u2019ll mean it, even if it is incoherent & sooky, to anyone else. But you, who love me, and know that I want to get it all out before it chokes me & I must get some of it to you tonight even if it is 3 o\u2019clock in the morning. I want you to be me, & have it too. Right inside me \u2013 In my heart \u2013 I can put you there because, now I know you belong there, and that somehow, no row will ever be bitter again. Because I have learnt I need you. And love you. This has made me quite shaky. And I\u2019m not even high. Chartres Cathedral de Notre Dame shook me. I was just in that uninhabited state to be perfectly timed for it. It\u2019s about 45 miles from Paris, but before I go to London I am going to get the train up there to spend a day. I want you very much indeed.<\/p>\n

We had a couple of beers before coming back but Chartres had fixed us. The party was over. After returning we picked up a woman journalist from the Daily Express & had a light meal & went to see a hour long movie [Le myst\u00e8re Picasso<\/a>] on Picasso & how he works. This show really did me to a turn. It was completely fascinating. With some new techniques (movie) it showed through the back of his (say canvas) the lines & colours as he put them down \u2013 Also later how he composed & decomposed a full time serious picture \u2013 Showed all his trials & errors & erasures & final destruction of a painting. It was the most illuminating piece of movie reporting it is possible to imagine. A bloody superb picture \u2013 am going to see that again too. Darling, I must finish & get to bed. Even Paris has not been able to support the showing of this picture on Picasso to the extent it deserves \u2013 so probably it will never get to Australia. It is highly esoteric & technical & marvellous. So you can see, all in all darling it has been the moistest day I have had since I left home \u2013 and it has left me very taut indeed. I am tired, but my mind is going madly like a cretin clock. Forgive me for writing this darling but it will help unwind me and I\u2019d so much like to give you a fuck full with a great deal of love. From your Bill. XXXX<\/p>\n

Please translate some of this for Graham. Tell him I know he will understand I can\u2019t write separate letters, more love<\/p>\n

Bill xx<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

<\/a>
Notre-Dame de Clignancourt, painted by Maurice Utrillo in 1914, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Looking north down the stairs at the top of Rue du Mont Cenis towards Rue Saint-Vincent, Montmartre, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Looking up Rue du Chevalier de la Barre towards Sacre Coeur church, Montmartre, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Place du Tertre, Montmartre, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Montmartre, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Place du Tertre, Montmartre, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Montmartre, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Theatre de Tertre viewed from Rue Lepic, Montmartre, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Place Vend\u00f4me, Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Paris; 26 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Possibly Joan Harrison on the Avenue de la Grande Arm\u00e9e, Paris; 27 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
<\/a>
Paris; 27 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I have had the most wonderful day. I was breathless about it an hour or so ago but have tired off \u2013 Nevertheless, I want you to know, & for me to remember, something of it. I hope to write myself into a regained enthusiasm as I go along.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4112,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[280,2000,1999],"tags":[1502,1442,1511,1499,1443,1506,1494,1507,1510,1514,1508,1505,1498,1496,1500,1497,1509,1512,1079,1504,1406,281,1515,1446,1503,1513],"class_list":["post-2925","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-1956-cultural-exchange-trip-to-romania","category-chartres","category-paris","tag-chartres-cathedral","tag-consolidated-press","tag-curnonsky","tag-daily-express","tag-fleet-street","tag-germaine-richier","tag-hungarian-revolution","tag-iron-curtain","tag-isle-st-louis","tag-le-mystere-picasso","tag-margaret-murray","tag-matisse","tag-maurice-utrillo","tag-musee-dart-moderne-de-la-ville-de-paris","tag-notre-dame-chartres","tag-notre-dame-de-clignancourt","tag-olivetti-typewriter","tag-omelette-du-cure-de-mennessiar","tag-paris","tag-picasso","tag-roley-pullen","tag-romania","tag-saint-remy-les-chevreuse","tag-seine-river","tag-st-germain","tag-st-remy-les-chevreuse"],"yoast_head":"\nWep's 1956 Romanian adventure: 26-28 Oct; Paris, Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse and Chartres - Pidgeon Post<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/wepidgeon.com\/pidgeonpost\/?p=2925\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Wep's 1956 Romanian adventure: 26-28 Oct; Paris, Saint-R\u00e9my-l\u00e8s-Chevreuse and Chartres - Pidgeon Post\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I have had the most wonderful day. 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