{"id":2796,"date":"2016-10-21T15:00:39","date_gmt":"2016-10-21T04:00:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/wepidgeon.com\/pidgeonpost\/?p=2796"},"modified":"2019-01-30T16:47:14","modified_gmt":"2019-01-30T05:47:14","slug":"weps-1956-romanian-adventure-14-21-oct-cluj-oradea-bucharest-then-vienna","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/wepidgeon.com\/pidgeonpost\/?p=2796","title":{"rendered":"Wep’s 1956 Romanian adventure: 14-21 Oct; Cluj, Oradea, Bucharest and Vienna"},"content":{"rendered":"
Brasov Sun 14-Oct-56:\u00a0 Saw the magnificent Biserica Neagu – the <\/i>Black church<\/i><\/a> – built 800 years ago – Driver of car missing all day – were to go on to Cluj – but didn’t.<\/i><\/h6>\n
Mon 15-Oct-56: Left at 8am for Cluj. Met an ethnologist Nicolae Dunare & went out near Oradea to a peasant potters house<\/i><\/h6>\n
Tue 16-Oct-56:\u00a0\u00a0 Met sculptor and two artists, discussed social realism. Returned to Bucharest arriving 1:30am. Got letters from home.<\/i><\/h6>\n
Wed 17-Oct-56: Went to Institute & talked with Baranga. Got presents, bought some records, had dinner with Charles & Victor.<\/i><\/h6>\n
Thu 18-Oct-56:\u00a0 Cashed \u00a35. Left Bucharest at 8am. Arrived Vienna about 1pm. Changed flight booking to 21 Nov. Phoned dear little Dorothy.<\/i><\/h6>\n
Fri 19-Oct-56:\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Just wandered around all day – got pyjamas back from Stephanie Hotel [<\/i>Hotel Stefanie<\/i><\/a>]. Met Dr & Mrs Edgley & had dinner with Mrs E. at a Russian place. Was invited to stay with them!<\/i><\/h6>\n
Sat 20-Oct-56:\u00a0\u00a0 Went to Edgley’s and stayed. Was driven to Vienna Woods. Played Scrabble. Paid hotel, phone, rail fare. Cashed \u00a37 & \u00a310<\/i><\/h6>\n
Sun 21-Oct-56:\u00a0 Visited art museum & large picnic park where we had lunch. Had dinner at the Balkan Grill.<\/i><\/h6>\n

\"1956<\/p>\n

Romanische [Roemischer] Kaiser Hotel<\/a><\/h6>\n
Annagasse 1 Wien [ Annagasse 16]<\/h6>\n
Sat 20 Oct 56 <\/i><\/h6>\n

My darling girl.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s about 7.30am and is a bit on the cool side. I got out of bed \u00be hour ago as I found little comfort there. Now if I was out on the front verandah at 85 I reckon I could show you a thing or two. There\u2019s nothing much to look at here. My old machinery is getting out of practice. But my thoughts are ardent \u2013 and, I hope acceptable. As all this doesn\u2019t help one little bit. I suppose I had best carry on with the historical & geographical aspects of this one man caravanserie. But truly, I do miss you so very much. I\u2019m getting a bit tired of gazing at churches, & public monuments, parks, rivers, street names, traffic policemen, food shops, dress shops, German phrase books, city maps, handfuls of all sorts of currency and foreign menus. I am not tired of looking at girls or book shops, although it is my much considered opinion that the latter are of much better quality. It seems surprising how few top line sorts one sees in Europe \u2013 so far. However, talking about that is preferable to writing. The book shops here are very good \u2013 really go in for art publications with German thoroughness, but I dare say that in Paris & London I shall find them as good \u2013 probably better. I have only just realised that my last letter to you was posted from Orasul Stalin in Rumania last Sunday. God, knows when you will receive it \u2013 possibly after this one. I have been a bit too busy travelling to give you much of myself. I did get a kick out of ringing you in Sydney and even if the connection was bad, we did manage to make some real contact. It was nice to hear you sweetie, although for the life of me, I can\u2019t remember anything much about it except the important items of date of return \u2013 seeing the Edgleys \u2013 giving you the tip off to write c\/o Roley Pullen, and hearing Graham too. I bet he gave the schoolboys & the neighbours an earbashing about a telephone call from Vienna. I hope you felt I was loving you very much. Because I was. I didn\u2019t get the address of the street too well \u2013 so went to a travel agency & with their help found the Australian Commission\u2019s premises. Edgley was away at Linz \u2013 and was due back at 6pm Friday. About 6.30 I rang his wife \u2013 she was delighted to hear a dirty old Australian accent & insisted I catch a cab straight out, which I did & while trying to find out, with my filthy German, which house they lived in \u2013 the doctor arrived home. Only to find his youngest child, a girl of 2 \u00bd down with pneumonia. Mrs E wanted to dine out, so papa stayed home to look after sick child. They have invited me to stay with them for the day or two before I leave for Paris. Quite a lively couple \u2013 she is 6 months gone again \u2013 making it her 3rd<\/sup>. They are getting pretty sick of the climate here \u2013 but have to stay on another 12 months or so.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The Black Church in Orasul Stalin (Brasov), Romania; 13 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

This rushing around is tiring and confusing \u2013 for the life of me I can\u2019t remember where I was up to in my travels. Did I tell you about a beautiful old church in Orasul Stalin. It was over 800 years old. The stone of its exterior quite fretted away like rocks by the sea, so dark grey as to have occasioned its name of Biserica Neagra which means Black Church<\/a>. It was very big and the interior all around the bottom end where the altar was placed was painted white. The towering shafts of stone appeared to radiate a purity of light \u2013 the altar itself nicely proportioned & with just the right amount of gold. It gave me rare pleasure. That white \u2013 unbelievably effective. The churches in Vienna, are even blacker in surface appearance \u2013 and more huge. But inside is all the original grey aged stone – & the effort is gloomy. The old black church had spirit \u2013 plus buoyancy. The maniacal driver managed to bash a mud guard in & that held us up for \u00bd day at O. Stalin. On the Monday morning we took off for Cluj at 8am. Transylvania! A country in everyone\u2019s imagination \u2013 full of werewolves, bats, vampires and horrifying mysteries. Ruritania<\/a> \u2013 with princes on sombre missions. Pine trees \u2013 dark recesses of the mountains & snow. And the whole damn place looks more like Australia than anything I have seen since I left home. It is a twin to the Monaro<\/a> district. Autumnal brown grass rolling slopes, very few trees, and the Alps in the distance. Tell Price Jones to tear the word Transylvania out of his accumulated imaginings. It just \u2018aint so. I am afraid I disappointed Mrs Edgley, too, with my account of it. Visited a vineyard on the way up & had a couple of quick snorts. They seem to only make white wines up here & pretty sour Riesling at that. Crumby stuff \u2013 which everyone drinks with soda water. Breaks your flaming romantic heart. To save something from the wreck you can tell Bill that the peasants do wear white trousers & white aprons \u2013 with great shaggy sheep skins coats to cover. They do carry long sticks & lead the flocks to various pastures. The only thing that was un-Australian was the complete & utter lack of fences anywhere. The peasants all live in clustered houses in the villages & at early morning set out in their carts drawn by horses or oxen for their plot which may be anywhere between one village & the next. Apparently they know their own ground backward & there is no dispute as to where one man\u2019s lot begins & ends. The peasants give their stock (sheep or cattle) to the shepherd & he takes them all out to grass.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Believed to be at a studio for artists and sculptors in Cluj, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Unknown artist at work. believed to be at a studio for artists and sculptors in Cluj, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Met some artists and sculptors in Cluj. They were being very well done by. Storybook studios & apparently adequate money. Also met a director of a folk lore museum who suggested we nick out & see some peasant potters. We did so \u2013 found out, was about 35 miles out. Practically on the Hungarian border \u2013 near a town named Oradea. Quite interesting. Next day returned to Bucharest \u2013 got in about 1.30am.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Possibly taken at Wep’s final meeting with the Director of the Cultural Institute (Institutul Romin Pentru Relatiile Culturale cu Strainatea), Bucharest, Romania; 17 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Had a meeting with the director of the Institute. All very amiable. Asked what I thought about Rumania, what I didn\u2019t like, etc. Received a present of a little bit of folk art. An old Rumanian custom I gather. Was happy to be able to reciprocate with the books. When I got back to the pub \u2013 found that more books & records had arrived. Such was the enormous weight of books \u2013 the Institute are sending them out. I hope they all arrive safely. Was explained to me that the early departure was due to the fact that it was the only booking they could get me before the Olympics.<\/p>\n

All very pleasant \u2013 a great pity the country is so poor. Also wrote a little piece about Australian art & did a short talk for the air, this they took on tape in the hotel room. Heard it played back.<\/p>\n

Got to Vienna about 12 noon. Where I thought to let you know immediately. Got the bright idea of ringing \u2013 not much more than a cable. To confirm our talk \u2013 I catch a BOAC plane at Zurich on 21st<\/sup> Nov. at 10.30pm & should arrive in Sydney on Sunday 25 at 7.20am. You can insure me for the trip if you like. I was shocked to read in a German magazine \u2013 I stumbled through it in German \u2013 of the unfortunate crash of the Vulcan Bomber<\/a> as it returned to London. It is now 9am. I better dress & have some rolls & coffee.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Picnic with Dr Robert Edgley and family at Franzensburg Castle in the grounds of Schlo\u00df Laxenburg, Vienna; 21 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Picnic with Dr Robert Edgley and family at Franzensburg Castle in the grounds of Schlo\u00df Laxenburg, Vienna; 21 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Picnic with Dr Robert Edgley and family at Franzensburg Castle in the grounds of Schlo\u00df Laxenburg, Vienna; 21 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Sunday [21 Oct 1956]. 3pm. I am sitting in a lovely park out of Vienna. In the middle is the Franzensberg Castle<\/a> built by Franz Joseph early last century. The castle is set in the middle of a fine artificial lake which has no water in it. The autumn trees are beautiful colours & in the distance a group of school girls are singing. The weather is most indulgent. A mild gentle setting sun. The Edgley girl made a magnificent recovery, playing like mad in the trees behind us. We had a picnic lunch.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts), Vienna; 21 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts), Vienna; 21 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Went to the Vienna gallery [Kunsthistorisches Museum<\/a> (Museum of Fine Arts)] this morning & saw many fine paintings including Tintoretto\u2019s Susanna & the Elders<\/a>, Holbein\u2019s Jane Eyre [Jane Seymour<\/a>], Vermeer\u2019s famous Painter & model<\/a>. Wonderful Titians and 14 Brueghels. Pity I am leaving in the morning but I suppose I had better move on. Paris & London will take time. I telegrammed Roley Pullen to ask him to get me some cheap accommodation \u2013 I am going in the Arlberg Express<\/a> from Vienna to Paris \u2013 via Zurich. Leaves at 9.10 in the morning & arrives Paris 8am the next day. Fare is about \u00a37-10.0 against \u00a317.10 by plane \u2013 also I will see up to the Alps in daylight. I stayed with the Edgleys last night & tonight \u2013 they seem to be a very happy coupe with two nice little girls. The Viennese are wandering up and down the lake \u2013 Yesterday, Rob took me for a drive through the Vienna Woods.<\/p>\n

I shall have to finish now as we are about to return to Vienna, and I want to post this letter before I leave in the morning. Lots of love my darling. Give Graham my love & a pat for Trellie. Tell him I liked receiving his letters. I hope he gets all the different stamps that are coming over. A big thing for you. XXXXX for all. Your old loving roue [?]<\/p>\n

Bill<\/p>\n

[Apparently Wep\u2019s visit to Romania was cut short as the people in the Institute wanted to get him out before trouble over flowed in Hungary. Five days after leaving Romania, widespread revolt erupted in Hungary against the Soviet backed government leading to its fall from power. On November 4, the Soviets invaded, crushing the revolt, and by November 10, all resistance had ceased.]<\/i><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
View from the Carpati Hotel overlooking Nicolae Titulescu, Orasul Stalin (Brasov); 14 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Primaria Brasov (Town Hall), Bulevardul Eroilor 8, Brasov, Romania; 14 October 1956 (Note the possible KGB agent in the light trenchcoat)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Looking southwest towards Biserica Catolica outside 28 Strada Muresenilor, Brasov, Romania; 14 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Piata Cuza Voda with the Catedrala Ortodoxa (Orthodox Cathedral) in the background, Aiud, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cetatea Aiudului, Aiud, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cetatea Aiudului, Aiud, Romania<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cetatea Aiudului, Aiud, Romania<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cetatea Aiudului, Aiud, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Cetatea Aiudului, Aiud, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Piata Cuza Voda with the Catedrala Ortodoxa (Orthodox Cathedral) in the background, Aiud, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Piata Unirii, Cluj, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Orthodox Cathedral, Cluj, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Orthodox Cathedral, Cluj, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Strada Regele Ferdinand 8, Cluj, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Strada Regele Ferdinand 33, Cluj, Romania; 15 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"\"<\/a>
Votivkirche (Votive Church) viewed from near Schottengasse 9, Vienna; 19 October 1956<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\"1956<\/a>\"1956<\/a>\"1956<\/a>\"1956<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I\u2019m getting a bit tired of gazing at churches, & public monuments, parks, rivers, street names, traffic policemen, food shops, dress shops, German phrase books, city maps, handfuls of all sorts of currency and foreign menus. I am not tired of looking at girls or book shops, although it is my much considered opinion that the latter are of much better quality. It seems surprising how few top line sorts one sees in Europe \u2013 so far. However, talking about that is preferable to writing. The book shops here are very good \u2013 really go in for art publications with German thoroughness, but I dare say that in Paris & London I shall find them as good \u2013 probably better.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4488,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[280,1992,2001,2012,1996],"tags":[1417,1432,1409,1429,1412,1407,1401,1405,357,1384,1418,1362,1428,283,1366,1434,1435,363,1415,1403,1421,319,1315,282,1416,1425,1422,352,1423,1402,1431,1361,1414,1430,1427,1433,1410,1400,1406,281,1399,1408,1413,1411,1424,311,320,360,1426,334,1404,1420,1419],"class_list":["post-2796","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-1956-cultural-exchange-trip-to-romania","category-bucharest","category-cluj","category-romania","category-vienna","tag-1956-melbourne-olympics","tag-aiud","tag-alps","tag-arlberg-express","tag-artist","tag-australian-commission-vienna","tag-austria","tag-balkan-grill","tag-baranga","tag-black-church","tag-boac","tag-brasov","tag-brueghel","tag-bucharest","tag-carpati-hotel","tag-catedrala-ortodoxa","tag-cetatea-aiudului","tag-cluj","tag-cultural-institute","tag-dr-robert-edgley","tag-franzensburg-castle","tag-holbein","tag-hotel-stefanie","tag-hungary","tag-institutul-romin-pentru-relatiile-culturale-cu-strainatea","tag-jane-seymour","tag-kunsthistorisches-museum","tag-monaro-district","tag-museum-of-fine-arts","tag-nicolae-dunare","tag-nicolae-titulescu","tag-orasul-stalin","tag-oradea","tag-orient-express","tag-painter-and-model","tag-piata-cuza-voda","tag-riesling","tag-roemischer-kaiser-hotel","tag-roley-pullen","tag-romania","tag-romanische-kaiser-hotel","tag-ruritania","tag-sculptor","tag-shepherd","tag-susanna-the-elders","tag-tintoretto","tag-titian","tag-transylvania","tag-vermeer","tag-vienna","tag-vienna-woods","tag-vulcan-bomber-world-tour-crash","tag-zurich"],"yoast_head":"\nWep's 1956 Romanian adventure: 14-21 Oct; Cluj, Oradea, Bucharest and Vienna - Pidgeon Post<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/wepidgeon.com\/pidgeonpost\/?p=2796\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Wep's 1956 Romanian adventure: 14-21 Oct; Cluj, Oradea, Bucharest and Vienna - Pidgeon Post\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I\u2019m getting a bit tired of gazing at churches, & public monuments, parks, rivers, street names, traffic policemen, food shops, dress shops, German phrase books, city maps, handfuls of all sorts of currency and foreign menus. I am not tired of looking at girls or book shops, although it is my much considered opinion that the latter are of much better quality. It seems surprising how few top line sorts one sees in Europe \u2013 so far. However, talking about that is preferable to writing. 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