Wep’s 1956 Romanian adventure: Hotel Athénée Palace, Bucarest, Romania; first impressions

Wed 3-Oct-56:  Left 9am arrived Bucharest 2:30. 2 girls met me. Staying at Hotel Athenee Palace.

Hotel Athénée  Palace

Bucarest 3 Wed 56

Darling Dorothy

It was sweet of you to send a cable for my arrival. Two lasses from the Institute met me at the airport. We had hardly completed the formalities establishing our identity when they, with, I think, real pleasure, said they had a cable for me. It did me a lot of good, and on the strength of it, I will never say a harsh word to you again. Thank you little wife.

A car brought us to the hotel at 3 pm after getting my room for me, the lasses left & I had a sleep & a wash. At 5 pm, one of them, who has been assigned to me as an interpreter, returned with the car & we did a trip around the city.

I’m too tired to do this letter justice, so will go to sleep & finish it in the morning. It’s a treat to think that I will not be packing & frantically worrying about catching planes. Goodnight darling & thanks again.

6.20 am. The weather is warm to hot. Somewhere in the 70’s – They are having an Indian Summer, I am told, after a cold September. The leaves have just begun to fall off the thousands of trees which are in this capital. The Bucharestians are extremely park conscious and in addition to what were obviously many fine parks & practically all tree lined streets. The Republic has extended the park lands & playing fields. God what a sentence!

This city has for the past century been under the influence of French culture, which has resulted in a lighter & more elegant approach to architecture & city layout. Practically all the streets look like ceremonial drives. The approach in from the airport is really fine. Two, single way broad streets flanked by trees, parks, and ritzy ex-bourgeois homes (now legations & what not). This hotel happily in the classiest centre & almost alongside the art gallery, is obviously a posh reminder of the pre war days. High class & kept in good order, good service. Telephones in rooms, H & C water, bidets, service call buttons, nice carpets. Just so. A fine dining room, good menu, with many items orchestra, good wine. All is provided, & whatever we do, or have, is fixed up by the girl who signs a chit. They even gave me an envelope with 500+ something lei in it, for spending money. (The average wage for a month here is 600 lei.) Am getting treated like a fighting cock. I like the city – in appearance, as I said, much gayer, most of the buildings light in colour, off whites & cream etc, rather like Sydney. Nice sight from the air too with lakes & a river. Most noticeable is the absence of motor cars. There are singularly few and these constantly blowing horns to clear the myriads of pedestrians who seem to swarm all over the streets. The cars they have are mostly Russian made. Plenty of trams full to the eye teeth. Great contrast in clothing. Some very unkempt – some extra spruce. However, more of that later. I really haven’t seen anything on foot yet. Last night we went for a walk round the shops. Big crowds. Practically all the shops are state owned & show a variety of utilitarian goods. Some few of the state shops are now beginning to feature more individual & better quality stuff, which naturally becomes dearer. A few privately owned shops specialise in hand made wear with the style improved & also the price.

The govt. is really out to raise the cultural level of the people. Books are very cheap, plenty of exhibitions, concerts and plays. I did see an open air theatre & was quite impressed – must attend a performance there. Sport too is intensely catered for. They have built a big concrete Olympiad bowl with a fine field & running tracks etc. They have bull dozed the earth up into a great round ring & poured concrete seats all around the field. 100,000 people capacity. Nearby is the nuttiest thing ever. A high tower with a desk on top. The tower is nearly 300 ft high & is for those who like to try a parachute jump. My interpreter is not of these. Quite a few cinemas showing Russian & Continental films. I am to meet the gentlemen from the Institute this morning – and will then know what’s what.

It is a lovely morning with sun streaming over the roof tops beyond the courtyard below. I am on the fifth floor of the hotel. There’s not much to add at the present except to say that I feel quite relaxed although tired. I’m happy about my quarters & the city, and am sure everything will be very pleasant.

Lots of love darling – for you an imagined kiss & a frolic – for Graham a big affectionate pat on the head – and for Trellie a vulgar tickle.

Bill

P.S. Am getting the lass (Stephania Rotaru by name) to help me get Graham some music of Rumanian folk songs & some records.

The Rumanian cookery is based on French lines.

Another, & some more of the aforementioned thoughts.

Bye now!

At the moment I am standing in the street in the sun outside the hotel. There is a late American Chrysler standing here – and the folk are around it like flies. Got an American No. plate on it too. ODD.

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Wep’s 1956 Romanian adventure: Grand Hotel, Budapest, Hungary

Mon 1-Oct-56: Taking off for Vienna 12:20. Arrived and rushed twice to Rumanian Consulate.  Cashed £2

Tue 2-Oct-56: Great trouble making conversation at Consulate – no English spoken – got visa & Hotel Stephen Hungarian – had to leave at 4 for Budapest – arrived about 7 Grand Hotel by the Danube over night.  Cashed £10

Grand Hotel Budapest

2 Oct. Tues night

My dear Dorothy,

It’s very late, something after twelve – but I’d like you to get a line from Hungary. See how dutifully I am supplying Graham with stamps from all ports of call. Costing me plenty. The letter from Munich was double weight & air mail postcard to Graham, and the same to Sharon, set me back about 8/-. Have had a heavy time of it in Vienna madly walking back and forth between the Hotel and two different legations. I had to get visas from both the Rumanian & Hungarian legations. The Rumanian Legation is a good two miles from the pub. On arrival at Vienna on Monday about 1 o’clock I struggled around the crowded streets with all my gear – weather hot too – looking for the travel agency to find me a room, which they did. More struggle till I got a bus they had suggested. Had a wash & like a fool left my heavy boots & hastened down to the Embassy – only realising when I had got there that my passport was at the hotel being entered up in the lodger’s book. (All European countries demand your visa when being booked in for accommodation.) Got there couldn’t find anyone to speak English – & with my pidgin German understood I was to bring it straight back. Which I did & left it on the hope that on the morrow they could dial up an English speaker. I was about zoosed the way back on the second trip & had a fairly early night. Went down early in the morning – got there & realised the time was only 8 instead of 9. Cooled my heels around the town for an hour & went back. My God, what a conversation. My phrase book, which I cant find anything useful in – my pidgin German – occasional words of English & French & we came to some sort of understanding. Went to Hungarian Embassy & did somewhat better with an English speaking girl. Left passport & had to return at 3 pm. Then went to the flight booking place & found I couldn’t alter the flight plan & so had to rush madly around, pack up & get passport & be ready to board a bus by 4 pm, which I did. Unfortunately left my grey pyjamas behind in Hotel – but will write them with this letter & ask them to hang on to them for my return. I hope they do. Budapesht is only 1½ from Vienna & only two passengers on plane. Police boarded us soon as plane touched ground & looked at our passports. Anyway we cleared through without trouble & I am settled for the night in the above hotel. It is a very big place. Must have been pretty posh once. I’m tired – Goodnight darling.  

We arrived in the dark & so didn’t see anything of B-Pest but electric lights. The hotel is a long way out but is beautifully situated in a park alongside the Danube, not that the Danube looks anything but industrial in this area. Big wide river though – splits in two just here & this place I’m on is an island in the middle. Odd collection of people here last night. Refined & unrefined – dancing to orchestra till after I went to bed. Magnificent big dining room – foyer, etc. – Also Chinese here & a great bunch of Indians in all sorts of dress. They were of both sexes.

Lots of love

Bill.

I am apt to get panic stricken about getting these planes when so few understand English. I’m on edge now waiting for the hotel bill & for them to change some Austrian money into Hungarian – would have been a lot easier if my cheques had had been properly endorsed. If I get this plane, I’;; be able to relax for some time. I’m to meet Buican or someone at 2.30 pm today.

I wish I’d had you in Vienna. It is a lovely city. I shall you more of what little I saw later. Things would been a lot more pleasant if you were with me darling.  You’d better take some more lottery tickets because if ever we were to make the trip we’d need plenty. As it is with credit restrictions I reckon two people wouldn’t last more than a month for £300, i.e. paying their own fares etc. Be nice snooping around with you – and returning to the hotel – yes?

Lots of love dear and tell Graham I don’t forget him – I hope he is happy – and how about Trelly?

I hope you didn’t send any letters to Vienna, because I was in a different hotel.

Ta-ta Sweetie

Yours Bill

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